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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.